Batman
- Light Grey (tights/jersey): These are the highly contested grey/purple material. I have always believed that they used a light grey
ONLY and that the many pink and purple light gels they used constantly are the only source of lilac or lavender that is seen. If you want to go with the grey
look - I have used PlastiKote (or Omega) brand sandable "light grey" auto primer unmodified, out of the can for many years. It dries fast, looks flat
(as shown) and is a perfect base if you do want to add a light lavender overspray. I cannot advise on the lavender look as I have never used this on my own
projects. I think it looks wrong in person, just as red batmobile stripes don't look right in person to me versus orange.
- Blue satin areas (trunks, cape, cowl): This method for achieving a realistic navy bridal satin look is a bit tricky but looks great
in person. I base coat with grey primer, then shoot (or brush on depending on the project) these areas with a few coats of Testor's Model Master Enamel
"Arctic Blue Metallic" which is really a pearlescent gloss. Let this dry/cure/degass for as many days as you can. It will stay sticky for a while.
When you can't stand waiting any longer, start shooting it with light coats of testor's Dullcote. Let thoroughly dry between coats. After a few of
these - watch what happens to your blazing gloss pearl - it mellows into a beautifully subdued navy satin look.
Note: I have occasionally done this method with a black primer basecoat instead of grey. It can look too dark this way, but the arctic blue metallic is an
enamel candy color so it doesn't take well over lighter bases. A medium grey would be a good middle ground basecoat to use.
- Blue Leather (gloves, boots): I've used many methods for this. The basic goal is to match the color/shade of the other blue,
but keep a semigloss, non satin/pearl look to the texture. I usually mix up a Delta Ceramacoat (acrylic) blue to match the shade of blue I've achieved in
the other areas and then sealed with a semigloss later.
- Yellow (utility belt): The utility belt is done in a gloss medium yellow to simulate the vinyl wrapped original. I've used a
number of successful brands but lately I've been using a very opaque medium yellow acrylic designed for airbrush work. It dries flat, but I brush on high
gloss clearcoat afterward.
- Brass (belt buckle): If I don't use a real brass photo-etched buckle then I brush it on with testor's Model Masters Bright
Brass
Misc.other colors - I use Delta Ceramacoat medium flesh for the skin tones, but I always tone them down with some creamy paleness or very light grey. Black
for front of cowl is a flat acrylic black (I use Tamiya flat black) I use a flat Delta sky blue for the eye etc.
Robin
- Red (tunic): I mix a lot more custom color paints for Burt's outfit. The tunic is a combination of red, orange and very light grey. I use flat paints and start with mixing some Tamiya orange in with a Polly S red. When I get enough orange I start mixing in a little light grey to start taking the saturation down a bit.
- Green (undershirt and shorts): This underneath outfit looks like a vintage jersey cotton, kind of light and faded. I start with Tamiya flat green and start mixing a tiny bit of yellow and then light grey until it is muted and almost olive looking.
- Green Leather (gloves, boots): Burt used two types of gloves/boots on screen. Tanned leather and Sueded leather. I forget which was first. Depending upon which version you want to emulate: For the harder smoother tanned leather - I use Tamiya Black-Green out of the jar. If it is too shiny, I tone it down with my clearcoat process later. If you want the sueded look - I use a spray - sage green "Make It Suede' faux effect paint available at Michael's that works great. Do this last if you're going to use it or mask it off before your final clearcoat as it reacts poorly with some sealers. Don't forget the bottom soles of the boots which should be flat charcoal.
- Beige (Tights): I sometimes delineate between the flesh colors I use for the skin and the tights that Burt wore. It isn't crucial. But if I do - I just mix up a slightly more tan version of the pink flesh basecoat I am using for the rest of the skin areas. And I don't do any shading at all on the tights area. I sometimes brush horizontally to get a subtle fabric effect here as well.
- Brass (belt buckle, capsules, eyelets): If I don't use a real brass photo-etched buckle then I brush it on with testor's Model Masters Bright Brass. Same goes for the brass cylindrical capsules. Depending on how small the figure is (and these might be too small) here's what I do for the lacing eyelets: I do rows of tiny dots in the brass paint directly to the left and right of the laces. After they dry, I dot the middle of each brass dot with a black ultrafine pen.
- Satin Yellow (cape, collar): This is the trickiest mix of Robin's suit. NOTE: I recommend starting with a flat white base coat for the cape.
I use a tube of Windsor & Newton iridescent titanium white and mix TINY bits of yellow (canary yellow) into it until I get a very pale yellow. The trick here is not to put too much yellow in. It should shimmer like satin and too much yellow will kill the effect. The iridescent white will emulate satin well, and catch the light right.
Misc.other colors - I use Delta Ceramacoat medium flesh for the skin tones, but I always tone them down with some creamy paleness or very light grey. Black for mask is a flat acrylic black (I use Tamiya flat black) You can see what brown works best for you for the hair. I start with a light chestnut and wash in darker shades to get a hair effect. Laces are light grey. Belt is semigloss black.
Many of our colors are custom blends so we would be putting our own private label together. I emailed a few distributors but it's way down the list.
